This was definitely a New Year's to remember. We had some Venezuelan traditions mixed with Colombian food mixed with the Marcha Madrileña (meaning we got home at 9 in the morning).
I was asked by Mariana's parents about American traditions on Nochevieja (New Year's Eve) and I was at a loss for words. "Uhh we countdown at midnight?" For Venezuelan New Year we each had our 12 grapes (which they all started eating right before the countdown, and I had so much trouble because of course they have seeds in them and I am not used to that...) then we all had to put money in our pockets for good wealth and security in the new year, and then our passports and our suitcases so that we travel a lot in the new year...and then we each had our glass of champagne and Mariana's mom was running around with a bowl of cooked lentils, shoveling spoonfuls into our mouths. I didn't get the back story on the lentils, but I am assuming it is for luck. So about ten minutes after midnight I finished my grapes, all the while they are laughing at me because I am not accustomed to the process and therefore was running around crazy. It took everyone so much time to get ready that by the time we ate dinner it was after midnight. I was starving and on the verge of a migraine, but the food was so good. Victor's girlfriend laura from colombia made caramelized chicken, which was amazing. I watched every step and wrote down the recipe. We finally went out to celebrate in Malasaña (a neighborhood with a lot of cool stores and nightlife) around 2am and it was the busiest I have seen the streets of Madrid. We found a good bar that was playing good music (ie not all Spanish pop music) and stayed there for awhile before making our way to eat breakfast and then caught the metro home at 9am just in time to usher Seattle into the New Year (the guy sitting next to us didn't really seem to care).
The other night we had an Arepas & Apple Pie party. Mariana's friend Jose liked my apple pies at Thanksgiving so much that he begged me to make more. I told him I would but he had to make something Venezuelan. Which ended up meaning that his wife Melisa made a whole bunch of arepas for everyone (thick tortilla like things stuffed with ham and cheese). But, Jose pointed out, he bought the cheese at El Corte Ingles (the mega huge department store/supermarket/everything store) and therefore contributed to the cooking. Mariana's dad took out his "cuatro" (Venezuelan guitar with 4 strings) and we all sang Venezuelan folk songs and flamenco songs until the grouchy neighbor lady came over and started yelling at us. It was only 8:30pm, not even dinner time in Spain, and she was yelling at us to shut up. Mariana says that our building is full of immigrants and that it really bothers "la vieja" so she gets really annoyed and takes to yelling at people from her window. We suspect it was her who threw our broom off the balcony a few months ago.
Today is Día de Los Reyes (or Three Wise Men Day) where all the polite, well-behaved Spanish children (all 5 of them--just kidding) receive their presents. So yet again everything is closed down and the only stores open are "Los Chinos" or the convenience stores that are mainly run by Chinese people (or anyone who is Asian, but of course they are referred to as Chinese). Last night I headed to the Cabalgata de los Reyes Magos, or the annual Three Wise Men/Epiphany Parade. I couldn't really see much, and spent most of the time dodging the candy being thrown our way, but I was able to see the three wise man who rode by to close out the parade. The first wise man rode by with a wife, the second one the same, and the third one rode by with another guy and both of them were wearing black face. So according to madrileños, the third wise man was gay? And they couldn't have just asked a guy from the crowd, or the numerous people who live in Madrid of African or Arab descent? It had to be a Spanish guy painted black?
Another tradition of Día de los Reyes is roscón. I am not too much a fan of the pastries I have encountered so far in Madrid, and the roscones that I saw just looked plain gross. It looks like a round piece of bread with some fake cherries and fruit and sugar on top. They are cut in half and then stuffed with cream. I walked by a bakery the other day with a line out the door and down the block--these things are super popular. I thought they had ham in the middle and I kept thinking, "man this bread thing looks gross". Marcy, Erin and I bought one last night to try. We took it to a restaurant and carried it to the back so we wouldn't stick out (I am guessing that eating the roscón on the night before the Reyes is sacrilege). After all the fuss of the roscón, it really is just bread with some sugar on top...and dry bread at that. But anyway, there is generally something put in the roscón and whoever gets it (like a small plastic baby) will have luck for the rest of the year...kind of like our wishbone on Thanksgiving.
This vacation thing needs to stop or I will permanently be in my pjs. It is 8pm I am still in pajamas and I haven't brushed my teeth yet today. Feel free to be grossed out.
Picture side note: That is Víctor, Yandira, Mariana, me, Reynaldo, and Laura (Víctor's Colombian/French girlfriend)
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